In an unsuspecting unit above a barbers shop in Oldham, two young chefs are elevating the humble butty. Ruger Fjord is nestled away in the winding roads of Oldham, its Scandiinspired black exterior a little out of place against the Victorian terraces.
It’s the new venture of Kieran O’Reilly, a 24-year-old chef wise beyond his years and his close-knit team. Michelin-trained at the one-star mana in Ancoats, Kieran always wanted to be a chef, but after working in some of the most demanding kitchens in Manchester, realised it wasn’t all sunshine and roses behind the grill.
Spurred on by his love of cooking, and the idea that things could be done differently, Kieran decided he wanted his own place. Originally envisioned as a brunch spot with sandwiches and focaccia on the side, two-days before opening, his sandwiches went viral and he decided to drop everything else. The sandwiches, however, are much more than just a humble barm.
Kieran uses his training, elite ingredients and passion for food to craft sandwiches with a difference; on the menu you’ll find ‘The Beef’ (a callback to shouty, hit kitchen drama The Bear) prepared with French techniques and a char siu-style stock, braised for 24 hours at 96°C, and served with a red pepper relish, XO sauce, and house-made bacon jam. Or there’s a Malaysian rendang curry sandwich featuring mango salsa and a home-made miso celeriac puré, as well as a ‘Classic Italian’ made using tomato vine oil and utilising natural compounds like MSG found in tomato skins to create a savoury, mouth-watering experience.
Not only is the food different, but the service is too. Taking two forms, you can order via ‘sandwich drop’ – pre-booking online and picking up your preferred butty to takeaway – or as a fine-ish dining, seven-course tasting menu, culminating in a live sandwich show. ‘Show’ being the operative word, because Kieran really is a showman, and his enthusiasm for his craft is infectious.
Kieran says the ‘fine’ element of the dining is subtle. It’s elevated food and an experience to highlight the flavours, but still friendly and welcoming. He wants you to feel at home, well-fed and looked after. No stuffy formalities. That goes for back-of-house too. His motto is ‘Happy chef, happy food’ and it’s clear that he and his small team embody that.
Instead of silver service, then, you’ll be served a series of courses designed to enhance each flavour of the sandwich, highlighting its meticulously prepared elements and teasing the senses into craving the final product itself.
There aren’t many other tasting menus nearby, but for Kieran, being set-up in Oldham is important. Inspired by his business partner Alan, who runs a successful barbers shop below the restaurant (and who’s cut Kieran’s hair since he was 13), he’s proud to bring something different to the local area. When asked if they didn’t fancy a swanky city centre set-up, they answer ‘Why should we go to them? They can come to us.’ And to be fair to them, ‘they’ do come, not just from Manchester but from all over the country.
On their first day of opening, after focusing solely on the sandwiches, they sold out in under an hour. When they told people they’d be ready to re-stock in a few hours, diners asked if they could stay to be first in line when they were back up and running. So Kieran started making the sandwiches in front of them, on the restaurant’s central island, explaining their composition and meticulously crafted fillings as he did and the idea of the sandwich show was born.
A lot of what’s come to make them special seems to have come as a result of adapting to the circumstances, but that’s not to say it’s without immaculate care and craftsmanship. The other reason people flock to Ruger Fjord is for their exclusive ‘poccacia’. Invented by Kieran and his co-chef Charlie when experimenting with bread, pocaccia is their answer to balancing the elements of an elevated sandwich.
Focaccia’s great for a classic fancy sandwich, they say, but it throws off everything else. Too stodgy, overpowering all the other carefully thought through elements and leaving you uncomfortably full. They decided a thinner, crispier bread would compliment their food better, so they came up with ‘poccacia’. Using a classic airy focaccia dough rolled thinly and coated in panko breadcrumbs, it’s then fried to make it crispy. The result is just the right amount of doughy deliciousness and enough integrity to keep hold of the packed elements inside all while still being extraordinarily light and crisp. Inventing a bread is a ballsy move for such an upstart outfit. But you’ve got to admire it.
The small but mighty team seem genuinely overjoyed with the success they’ve experienced so far. Their passion is palpable and with such a clear ethos, drive in spades and knowledge well-beyond their years, it’s likely this is just a remarkable first stop in the culinary journey they’re going to carve out.
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